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TRAVEL JOURNAL
1. State
of Emergency to State of Bliss (April
25, 2009)
2. Falling
for Bhutan (April 27, 2009)
3. Bad
habits in Bhutan (April 30, 2009)
4. The
National Crematorium (May 5, 2009)
5. TRONGSA (May 20, 2009)
6. The
Real Magic Kingdom (May 22, 2009)
7. The
Hub Club (May 23, 2009)
8. Back
to the Promised Land (November 29,
2009)
9. Make Believe
Country (December 5, 2009)
10. In
Bhutan, Skateboarding is a Crime (December
7, 2009)
11. Ride
of a Lifetime (December 11, 2009)
12. Government
Has a Campaign (December 14, 2009)
13. At the Carwash (December 17, 2009)
14. Driving to India (December 21, 2009)
15. Romeo & Juliet, the Indian Version (December 24, 2009)
16. Tiger Tracks (December 29, 2009)
17. How I learned to Text (December 31, 2009)
18. Pinatubo (January 19th 2010)
19. Catching a Buzz in Bhutan (July 13th, 2010)
20. Chilies and Cheese (July 15th, 2010)
21. The Falkand Islands (October 24, 2010)
22. Sea Lion Island, Falkland Islands (October 24, 2010)
23. The Falklands War (October 25, 2010)
24. Carcass Island, Falklands (October 25, 2010)
25. Return To Stanley (October 26, 2010)
26. Bhutan is so Appealing: explained (December 8, 2010)
27. The People of Bhutan, the nicest you'll ever meet (Dec. 10, 2010)
28. Good Governance in Bhutan (December 14, 2010)
29. Wat Phu Champasak, southern Laos (October 18, 2010)
30. Luang Prabang, Laos (February 28, 2011)
31. Bhutan, (Not Quite) The King and I (March 3, 2011)
32. Thimphu, Bhutan (March 9, 2011)
State
of Emergency to State of Bliss
(April 25, 2009)
You
wanna go to Bhutan, you pretty much have to go
via Bangkok.
Arrival in Bangkok coincided with the very planned
Thai New Year, and unexpected street demonstrations
against the government. Taxi got no closer than
one block to hotel, streets closed for the revelers.
This meant a short walk, though what amounted
to sniper alley, as everyone was armed with 2
or 3 foot guns, (pause for dramatic effect), shooting
streams of water. Yep, the world's biggest water
fight underway, and I arrived drenched. What I
learned: my new suitcase is waterproof.
Phyllis, Kim and Janet are already in Bangkok,
their first time, so when taxi dropped them off
and instructed them to walk to hotel, through
the watery gauntlet they were truly innocents
abroad. I worried they might be distressed by
all the revelry. Seems they subscribe to the "when
in Rome do as the Romans do", and they have
joined the party.
I changed, went down to the street, and got me
a gun. All the streets surrounding the hotel on
Khao San Road closed to traffic, and jam packed
with people. Most have water guns, some garden
hoses, others buckets of water, and then others
bowls of wet white clay, so you very soon get
accustomed to strangers stroking your face leaving
it clay covered. News to me, I look OK with pancake
makeup. Both the water and clay have their origins
in a New Year good luck gesture, originally a
few drops of water and a smudge of clay on the
cheek. Now morphed into a 3 day multi-block party
with throbbing wet bodies, smiling, laughing,
and dancing on the streets, refrigerator size
speakers every 20 feet blasting music. Sixty seconds
after I leave hotel and I'm soaked. It's 90 plus
degrees, so feels pretty good. The revelers are
mostly Thai, but this being Khao San Road, they
come in every flavor. Three in the morning, 3
in the afternoon, same density and decibels.
Khao San Road is just blocks away from Democracy
Monument, ground zero for demonstrations in Bangkok.
Red shirted demonstrators clash softly (initially)
with police. Later they begin to burn buses. We
walk, rather innocently into groups of soldiers
(these with real machine guns), and demonstrators
with sticks, and locals taking pictures of both.
I'm pretty chicken shit when it comes to danger,
but this seems oddly un-menacing, despite the
hundreds of soldiers, so close we brush up against
them, as they crowd the same sidewalks we also
try to maneuver.
CNN shows the same 12 burned buses about a million
times, leaving Berous and Wendie, still in San
Francisco uncertain if they should board the flight
to Bangkok. I get several middle of the night
calls, and assure then they will face no hazard
in Bangkok. The brave souls get on the plane.
Three mornings later we board the next plane,
this one to Bhutan, where the biggest risk seems
to be the chili dominated cuisine, which burns
on entrance and exit.
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